Moab Desert Tower Climbing
- Product code: mrc
Castle Valley is home to some of the most aesthetic climbing objectives anywhere in the lower 48. An array of Wingate sandstone towers, known as Castle Ridge, dots the 1000’ skyline, hems in the valley to the east, and offers crack upon crack of steep and varied desert climbing. San Juan Expeditions guides climb up many of these towers. Castleton Tower – the most popular route, the Kor – Ingalls (5.9) is one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. This tower sits in solitaire. From the summit, one has a view overlooking hundreds of miles of desert and sky. Fine Jade (5.11a) on The Rectory is another dessert classic! This route follows a beautiful crack system up the tower’s south face for an impressive four pitches. Similar to Castleton, the view from the summit is unmatched. Sister Superior – This tower sits approximately one mile north of Castleton and The Rectory and provides one of the canyon country’s finest routes, Jah Man (5.10). This route provides short pitches with short cruxes and easy rappels. Fisher Towers– Our route of choice in the Fisher Tower is Stolen Chimney (5.8 A0 or 5.11a) on Ancient Art. If you have never climbed a tower before this is the one for you! Four wonderful pitches get you over 500 feet off the deck and to the famous diving board and corkscrew summit!
Looking Glass Arch, 5.5, 400 feet
This three-pitch route is a great introduction to multi-pitch climbing, and the perfect way to expand upon your single-pitch experience. Whether you simply want to get off the ground to take in the views, or are interested in learning multi-pitch techniques, this bolted route is perfect. This route also includes one of the coolest rappels in the area; it is sure to be a lasting memory!
Fisher Towers / Ancient Art, 5.8+ or 5.10, 350 feetThis tower features great climbing at a moderate grade with the most unique summit in the Moab area. You’ve seen the Citibank commercial; Red River can lead you there! This is the easiest tower in the Moab area and an option for almost anyone with gym experience, or for those who have participated in our full day of guided rock climbing. Ancient Art boasts one of the easiest approaches in the desert–which is kinda nice!
Castleton Tower, 5.9, 400 feet
Two 5.9 routes that feature moderate crack climbing on one of the world’s most famous towers make this a must-do for climbers with some experience. The home of the Kor-Ingalls route, one of the “50 Classic Climbs of North America,” Castleton Tower draws climbers from across the globe. For those who have the necessary skills, but not the climbing partner, the North Face (5.11) is also an option.